One thing is for certain: when Elton John marries his long-term partner David Furnish in December, the flower bill will be enormous. But it won’t just be the most famous gay couple in the world who will be digging deep into their pockets on their big day. To order a copy for £15.50 (including p&p), call Independent Books Direct on 08700 798 897. Cut into quarters lengthwise – leaving in the pips and the core. Place in a non-corrosive baking tray and pour over the verjuice (or apple juice).

Finely pare the zest from the lemon and mix the zest into the verjuice with the cinnamon sticks, vanilla bean and bay leaves Cover lightly with foil. Place in the oven and bake for 3 hours or until the quinces are soft and dark orange – turn them halfway through cooking. Serve warm, or at room temperature with home-made custard or with a good English-made Greek-style yoghurt. More information Restaurant Tom Aikens, 43 Elystan Street, London SW3, tel: 020 7584 2003 Fergus Henderson, St John, 26 St John Street, London EC1, tel: 020 7251 0848 Nose to Tail Eating – A Kind of British Cooking by Fergus Henderson is published by Bloomsbury priced £16.99. To dress your boiled greens, mix together 3tsp Dijon mustard with 1tsp red wine vinegar and 150ml/5fl oz extra-virgin olive oil Toss into the hot greens.

SKYE GYNGELL’S QUINCE, BAKED WITH HONEY, LEMON AND BAY LEAVES Skye Gyngell picks her own quince and uses Royal Parks honey from Twickenham beekeeper Mike Gill. Verjuice can be bought from Petersham Nurseries Cafe, or by mail order from www.kaikitchen.co.uk. Otherwise, use a good-quality apple juice. Serves 4 4 quinces 4tbsp good local honey 115ml/33/4fl oz verjuice 2 cinnamon quills 1 vanilla pod, split in half 1 lemon 4 bay leaves Preheat the oven to 150C/300F/Gas2. Wipe clean the quinces, removing the outside furry layer with a dry cloth. FERGUS HENDERSON’S BATH CHAPS, WITH MUSTARD-DRESSED GREENS Bath Chaps are a West Country speciality. They are the boned-out pig’s head which has been rolled so that the tongue is in the centre, surrounded by the cheeks and their protective layer of fat, tapering to one end. Serves 4 2 Bath chaps Stock vegetables: carrots, leeks, onion, celery Bundle of herbs Peppercorns Splash of red wine vinegar To make the brine 400g/14oz caster sugar 600g/1lb 5oz sea salt 12 juniper berries 12 cloves 12 black peppercorns 3 bay leaves 4l/7pints water Bring all the brine ingredients together in a pot and bring to the boil so the sugar and salt melt Decant into a container and allow to cool.

When cold, add your Bath chaps and leave for 3 days (in the fridge) Remove the Bath chaps from the brine and rinse thoroughly. Place in a large pot with the stock vegetables, herbs, peppercorns and vinegar Cover with water and bring to the boil Reduce to a gentle simmer for 2 hours Leave until cold then slice and fry the slices Serve with greens tossed in mustard dressing. Add enough water to come halfway up the sides of the terrine and bake for 11/2 hours Keep the water topped up Remove the terrine from the oven Place a weight on top and refrigerate for 24 hours To serve, mix the celeriac with the mayonnaise. Butter the toast and spread with a slice of p?, followed by the celeriac mixture Cut into equal rectangles. Top each with a sliver of truffle (optional) and a single salad leaf Serve on the side of the meats. Medium-mince the pork belly and the liver and then add all the herbs, seasoning and spices.

Mix in the alcohol, breadcrumbs, eggs, butter, onion, shallot and cream. Grease a 25cmx7cmx7cm (10inx3inx3in) terrine mould and then line it with the bacon, cover the top with tin foil and then place in a roasting tray. Pork p? Makes 15 slices 500g/1lb 2oz pork belly 500g/1lb 2oz pork liver 12g/1/4oz chopped garlic 250g/9oz chopped shallots 250g/9oz diced onion 120g/41/2oz bread crumbs 6 eggs 250g/9oz melted butter 250ml/9fl oz cognac 250ml/9fl oz port 8g/1/4oz chopped parsley 8g/1/4oz chopped thyme Pinch nutmeg Pinch dried sage 250ml/9fl oz double cream 20g/3/4oz salt Pinch milled black pepper 400g/14oz sliced smoked bacon To serve one person 1 slice toast 50g/13/4oz celeriac, cut into a fine julienne 1tsp mayonnaise Slice fresh truffle Sprig of lamb’s lettuce Preheat the oven to 170C/325F/Gas3. This p? is just one component of Aikens’ dish, which is accompanied by selection of finely sliced meats on a separate plate: from British meats such as rabbit confit, cured duck breast, home-made foie gras terrine and cured venison fillet, to cured peppered bacon (ventr?e), Alsace back bacon, Jabugo ham, lardo crudo, and Parma ham. So perhaps, in the end, the true idea of “British food” is actually in the taste of the beholder.