If ever there were any pancakes left over at the end of service, I would whip them home and make my own hollandaise to go with them: three delices make an excellent midnight snack.4 thin slices of prosciutto, halved16 cooked asparagus spearsFor the pancakes:2 eggs1 egg yolk250ml/8 fl oz milk2 tbsp melted buttersalt & pepper90g/31/2oz plain floura little extra melted butter for cookingFor the hollandaise sauce:3 egg yolks225g/8oz of butter, meltedjuice of 1/2 lemonsalt & white pepperFirst, make the pancake batter. This pancake dish, with its perfect combination of flavours is one that I recall from my days at the Normandie restaurant in Birtle, Lancs. DELICES D’ARGENTEUILThe Argenteuil region, outside Paris, is famous for its asparagus. I think the two final ingredients should be scattered parsley and anchovies in a criss-cross pattern on top Season discriminately with salt and generously with pepper Give the dressing a final whisk, and spoon over the surface Eat immediately with crusty bread.2.

Refresh under cold running water for 5 mins, then peel and quarter lengthways. Arrange the salad ingredients on a bed of the lettuce in a round, shallow porcelain or terracotta dish. Put the eggs in a saucepan of cold water, bring to the boil and cook for 5 mins. So, as long as the anchovies are of superior quality, I say up the quantity of those and ditch the tuna.

I would also ask that green pepper is not included, and that green beans are cooked through, so they don’t squeak when you bite them.4 eggs1 round or Little Gem lettuce8 small cooked artichoke hearts (such as those sold in jars from Italy)a handful of fine green beans, topped & tailed, boiled briefly, refreshed & drained12 small new potatoes, scraped, boiled & drained4 very ripe tomatoes, skinned & quartered16 black olives1 heaped tbsp capers, drained1 small red onion, peeled & thinly sliced1 small bunch of flat-leaf parsley, leaves coarsely choppedanchovies (at least 5 per person)sea salt & black pepperFor the dressing:2 tbsp red-wine vinegara generous pinch of sea saltblack pepper2 garlic cloves, peeled & finely chopped175ml/6 fl oz extra-virgin olive oilFor the dressing, mix together the vinegar, salt, pepper and garlic Whisk well, then pour in the oil in a thin stream Set aside. SALADE NICOISEI feel that tuna is redundant in a salade Nicoise; I just don’t think cooked tuna is anything to write home about. This week, he concentrates on light starters, meat and poultry main courses, and vegetable dishes to serve every purpose
Recipe photographs by Jason Lowe1. So why not cover our city squares with vacant plinths, on which we can place temporary statues to the gods of our day? A change in ratings, and their occupants could be instantly removed And the Queen could unveil a new one each week.. Summer is the very best time to cook. This week, in the first of a two part series, The Independent’s award-winning food-writer Simon Hopkinson shows why. He has chosen 50 of his own recipes which make the most of the season’s

abundance of fresh ingredients.